After toasting 2 generators in as many days I figured there has to be a better way. There is, these alternators cost ~$15 at the local pick and pulls and there are many to choose from. I'ts not hard to find one that has been farily recently replaced. Even if you can't find a rebuilt one, the brush pack/voltage regulator is only ~$30 at any larger parts house.
Some modification with a grinder is needed, I used a 4 1/2" unit that I have on hand for welding. The alternator bolts up to the stock B18/20 generator bracket so if it has egg shaped holes you may have some issues with alignment. Mine was OK and I have welded and re-drilled another bracket to use on my 1800.
This is where the alternator needs a bit of grinding to clear one of the mounting bolts that holds the bracket to the block. One could probably remove the bolt but as these alternators are plentifull and cheap I went for the grind.
The "ears" must be cut/ground flush so the belts line up.
A long good quality carrage bolt holds the alternator. The 2 nuts are used to secure the bottom. Tighten the right nut up against the alternator then jam the 2nd nut up tight. I've been running this was for over 1000 miles with no issues.
The finished product, the angle makes it look like the belt is not aligned, it's really nice and straight. I've stuck a picture of the belt that fit down below, it's a common Gates belt. The upper bracket is from a SAAB it has a slight curve to clear the alt' fan.
The wiring is simple, this is a pic of my temp' test hookup.
The black wire that used to run from the starter to the voltage regulator is spliced to the large red wire which goes to the large B+ terminal.
The exciter wire from the alternator uses the green wire that served the same function on the generator, it's spliced to the green wire that goes to the light in the panel.
The ground is not needed, the alternator grounds just fine through the mount, I did go ahead and use it in the final incarnation.
Here is the final incarnation of the wiring prior to being wrapped. I used un-insulated crimp on butt splices covered with shrink tubing. The ground is now routed to a screw that holds the clamp securing the wiring.
